YOUR SQUARE DANCE COSTUME ?
This is an instructive account for new dancers. The Costume Committee illustrates how to sew Tokyo Square Dance Club uniform, that is our deep-red square dance costume, with diagrams. Now, ladies who would like to sew the costume, you must needs consult the guidance below. We have a plan to show the sewing ideas and patterns for costume in book form.
|Now, let's start to sew one-piece costume.|
|Skirt : Four(4) pieces of circular cloth (full circle in all) to be patched together|
|Hem of the skirt: Frill|
|Main section of the costume : The neckline of a costume is cut full round.|
|Sleeve : Puff sleeves|
|Material : Anything between 100% cotton, cotton with polyester mixed, cotton somewhat on the thick side, and so on. |
Now we adopt 100% cotton dyed red of Tokyo Square Dance Club color.
|Required cloth size : 90cm(width) x 350cm(length)|
|Paper pattern : Paper pattern for general sleeved one-piece on the market is enough. (Model of main section of a dress: A Size 9) * Waist size: 68cm|
|Note : The dimensions on the figures shown below exclude a margin to sew up. You should estimate a margin to sew up of 1 to 2cm additionally.|
|How to take the measure|
|The measure of skirt shall be same as that of pannier. When a frill is sewed on the hem of skirt, the skirt wants shortening frill's measure.|
* The point of making the costume look lovely is that the hem line of skirt is kept not hanging lower than pannier.
(e.g.) In case that the measure of pannier is 50cm, and the measure of frill is 10cm, * the measure of "A" on Fig.No.1 is 40(=50-10)cm.
Fig.No.1Skirt * Four(4) pieces of circular -full circle in all- cloth to be patched together
|When you gather in the waist, you should cut off the cloth much more along the green line.
We recommend that its measure will be 1.8 to 2 times the size of waist. In regard to the gray-colored portion, considering that the bias of cloth stretches a little, you should also cut the part of 1 to 1.5cm wide on the paper pattern.|
Our club mark is indicated on the formal costume, and then you should patch pieces of cloth together so that the mark-prints on skirt will be located as shown in Fig.No.2.
|The frill length will be 1.8 to 2.5 times the circumference of the hem of skirt. The frill width will depend on your choice, and 10 to 12cm wide may be preferable. (The measure of "A" on Fig.No.3 means the frill width.) In regard to the texture, either vertical or cross (Ref: Fig.No.3) will do. You will be provided with the needed numbers of cloth through dividing the total length by the width of cloth, and now you can patch them together.|
|How to sew the skirt|
| 1. You will get ready for the skirt portion.|
2. And also, the frill should be prepared.
3. You will sew both skirt portion and frill together.
|Main Section of the Costume|
|- The perfect fit costume made to measure with less looseness than usual will be done wonderfully well.|
- The waist line will be set 2cm above. Therefore, the length of a costume will be shortened, and consequently it will be just right that the measure of skirt is same as that of pannier.
- The line attached a sleeve to the body of a skirt will be located at 1.5 to 2cm inside on the crown of a shoulder.
- The space size at the neckline of a costume will depend on your choice.
|One Point Advice|
|With a help of the updated paper pattern as stated above through the modification of that for general sleeved one-piece on the market, you had better sew a trial costume making use of spare cloth, try it on before attaching a sleeve to the body of a skirt, and make marks on the parts taht do not fit well with much looseness. And, it will be better for you to remove the basting thread, amend the paper pattern again, and complete the latest perfect fit one. Once completed, it will be also of use for next chance|
|Front Pattern of the Body||Rear Pattern of the Body|
|Sleeve Pattern -A-||The sleeve of Pattern -A- is small-sized, and has no frill at a cuff. In case that the measure of the crown of a sleeve is not enough, and gathers are running short, please make up for the deficit at the center. You will be provided with the part at a cuff where an elastic string passes through.|
|Sleeve Pattern -B-||The sleeve of Pattern -B- has a puffy shape. The cuff line will be rounded and set 1.5 to 3cm lower, keeping its well-balanced with the measure of sleeve. You will be provided with the part at a cuff where an elastic string passes through. The width of frill at a cuff will depend on your choice.|
|How to sew both main section of a costume and sleeve together|
| 1. You will bring gathers together to the crown of a sleeve.|
2. You will sew a dart and shoulder in turn at main section of a costume..
3. You will attach the inside of a neckline..
4. You will attach the sleeves..
5. You will sew from under a sleeve to side continuously, and two pieces together.
|How to complete the costume|
1. You will sew both main section of a costume and skirt portion together, and do a buttonhole stitch.|
2. You will attach the zipper.
3. Finally you will pass the elastic string through the cuff.
|Now the costume is completed. Excellent !!|
|Drawings for the costume design!!|